Spanish Lavender Care Guide

Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas) is a distinct species known for its distinctive "rabbit-ear" bracts atop dense flower heads. Key differences from English Lavender (L. angustifolia):

• Flowering time: Spanish blooms in winter-spring (Aug-Nov); English blooms in late spring-summer (Oct-Dec)
• Fragrance: Spanish has a sweeter, lighter scent; English has a stronger, classic lavender aroma
• Oil composition: Spanish has lower linalyl acetate; English is preferred for perfumery
• Climate preference: Spanish tolerates mild winters; English handles colder Highveld frost better
• Uses: Spanish is primarily ornamental; English is culinary-safe and better for essential oil

No, Spanish Lavender is not recommended for culinary use.

Only English Lavender varieties (Lavandula angustifolia) such as Hidcote or Munstead are considered safe for ingestion due to their low camphor content. Spanish Lavender contains compounds that may cause digestive discomfort if consumed.

For culinary applications: Use food-grade English Lavender only, and always confirm the botanical name before using any lavender in food or beverages.

We offer four colour varieties of Spanish Lavender, all available through LavenderSA:

• Purple: Classic deep violet with dark purple bracts (most common)
• Pink: Soft pink bracts; delicate appearance
• Yellow: Rare lime-yellow bracts; high ornamental value
• White: Elegant white bracts; popular for weddings and formal gardens

All varieties share the same growing requirements and flowering period (August–November in Gauteng).

Spring planting (September–November) is ideal for Gauteng, as it allows plants to establish before the next winter flowering season.

Autumn planting (March–May) is also possible in milder Gauteng microclimates, but young plants may need frost protection in their first winter.

Avoid planting: During extreme heat (December–January) or peak frost period (June–July).

Spanish Lavender requires full sun: minimum 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily.

In Gauteng, position plants in north-facing or north-west-facing locations to maximise winter sun exposure, which promotes better flowering and fragrance development.

Insufficient light results in leggy growth, fewer flowers, and reduced fragrance.

Winter (July–August): Water minimally—only when the top 5–7 cm of soil is completely dry. Overwatering is the #1 cause of root rot.

Spring (September–November): Increase frequency slightly as temperatures rise and flowering peaks, but still allow soil to dry between waterings.

Summer (December–February): Water deeply but infrequently; Spanish Lavender is drought-tolerant once established.

Pots: Check moisture 2x/week in winter; ensure drainage holes are clear and empty drip trays after watering.

Spanish Lavender is semi-hardy and tolerates light frost down to approximately -5°C.

Protection tips for Gauteng winters:

• Cover plants with frost cloth on nights when temperatures drop below -3°C
• Never use plastic sheeting (traps moisture and causes rot)
• Position pots against north-facing walls for radiant heat
• Avoid watering in late afternoon before a frost (wet soil freezes faster)

Established plants in well-drained soil generally survive Gauteng winters without protection.

Spanish Lavender thrives in well-drained, lean soils. Key requirements:

• Type: Sandy, gravelly, or sandy loam soils
• pH: 6.5–7.5 (slightly alkaline to neutral)
• Drainage: Critical—avoid heavy clay or water-retentive mixes
• Fertility: Low to moderate; excessive nutrients reduce flowering

Potting mix recipe: 50% quality compost + 50% coarse sand/perlite/grit

Garden beds: Amend heavy clay with 30% coarse sand + 10% compost; plant on a slight mound to improve runoff.

Spanish Lavender's peak flowering period in Gauteng is August through November (late winter to late spring).

Bud development: Begins in July; first flowers often open mid-July

Peak bloom: September–October

Secondary flush: With regular deadheading, some plants may produce a light rebloom in late summer (February–March), but this is less reliable.

Note: Exact timing varies by microclimate, cultivar, and seasonal weather patterns.

Deadheading is key: Remove spent flower heads regularly (weekly during peak bloom) by snipping just above the first set of healthy leaves.

Benefits of deadheading:

• Encourages production of new flower spikes
• Keeps plants tidy and compact
• May promote a light secondary flush in late summer

Additional tips:

• Ensure full sun and good airflow
• Avoid nitrogen fertiliser during flowering (promotes foliage over flowers)
• Maintain consistent, minimal watering

Yes! Spanish Lavender dries beautifully and retains its distinctive bracts and colour.

Best harvesting time for drying: When bracts are fully coloured but before they start to fade or brown (typically mid-bloom period).

Drying method:

1. Cut stems 15–20 cm below flower heads
2. Bundle 10–15 stems with twine or rubber band
3. Hang upside-down in a dark, dry, well-ventilated area
4. Avoid direct sunlight to preserve colour
5. Drying time: 2–3 weeks depending on humidity

Storage: Keep dried bundles in airtight containers away from light; fragrance lasts 6–12 months.

Spanish Lavender (L. stoechas) produces essential oil, but it is not the preferred species for commercial oil production in South Africa.

Why:

• Lower oil yield compared to Lavandin or English Lavender
• Different chemical profile (lower linalyl acetate, higher ketones)
• Primarily valued for ornamental use rather than oil

For essential oil production in SA: Focus on Lavandin cultivars (Grosso, Super) for high yield, or English Lavender (Hidcote, Munstead) for premium perfumery oil.

Spanish Lavender oil is occasionally used in niche aromatherapy blends or as a fragrance component, but demand is limited.

Most likely cause: Overwatering or poor drainage.

Spanish Lavender is highly sensitive to waterlogged soil. Yellowing, drooping, or mushy stems indicate root rot.

Solution:

1. Stop watering immediately
2. Check drainage holes (if potted) or improve soil drainage (if in ground)
3. Remove affected foliage
4. Repot or transplant to better-draining soil if necessary
5. Resume watering only when soil is completely dry

Prevention: Always allow soil to dry between waterings; use gritty potting mix; avoid thick mulch against stems.

Most likely causes: Insufficient sunlight or excess nitrogen fertiliser.

Solutions:

• Relocate to full sun: Ensure 6–8+ hours of direct sunlight daily; north-facing is ideal in Gauteng
• Stop fertilising: Spanish Lavender thrives in lean soils; nitrogen promotes leafy growth over flowers
• Prune lightly: Trim back leggy stems by one-third to encourage bushier growth
• Be patient: Newly planted specimens may take one season to establish and flower profusely

Cause: High humidity, poor airflow, or overhead watering creates conditions for fungal growth (often Botrytis).

Immediate actions:

1. Remove and destroy affected foliage (do not compost)
2. Improve air circulation: space plants adequately, prune dense growth
3. Water at soil level only—never wet the foliage
4. Avoid watering in late afternoon; allow plants to dry before nightfall

Prevention: Plant in full sun with good airflow; avoid overcrowding; use drip irrigation rather than overhead sprinklers.

Note: Chemical fungicides are rarely needed if cultural practices are followed. If severe, consult an agricultural extension officer for approved organic options.

Possible causes:

• Frost damage: Sudden cold snaps can damage developing buds
• Temperature swings: Rapid fluctuations between warm days and cold nights stress plants
• Water stress: Over- or underwatering during bud development
• Nutrient imbalance: Excess nitrogen or deficiency in phosphorus/potassium

Solutions:

• Protect plants with frost cloth during cold snaps
• Maintain consistent, minimal watering
• Avoid fertilising during flowering
• Be patient—plants often recover and produce a second flush if conditions improve

Spanish Lavender is available from specialist lavender nurseries and select garden centres in Gauteng including Lavender SA .

Recommended sources:

• LavenderSA: Field-grown plants from our Pretoria East farm; all four colour varieties available
• SAEOPA members: South African Essential Oil Producers Association members often stock lavender
• Specialist herb nurseries: Look for nurseries that propagate from cuttings (not seed) for true-to-type plants

Tip: Always confirm the botanical name (Lavandula stoechas) and variety (Purple, Pink, Yellow, or White) before purchasing.

Yes! LavenderSA supplies Spanish Lavender for:

• Landscaping contractors and estate developments
• Retail nurseries and garden centres
• Wedding and event stylists
• Municipal and public space plantings

Bulk pricing: Available for orders of 20+ plants; contact us for a quote.

Collection only: All orders are collected from our Pretoria East farm (Portion 54, Rietfontein 395 JR). We can arrange shipping or delivery at additional cost.

Contact: Email info@lavendersa.co.za or WhatsApp to discuss your project requirements.

Yes, by appointment only.

We welcome trade buyers, landscapers, and serious gardeners to visit our Pretoria East farm to view stock, discuss projects, and select plants.

To book a visit:

1. Contact us via email (info@lavendersa.co.za) or WhatsApp
2. Specify your interest (e.g., bulk purchase, landscaping project, educational visit)
3. We'll confirm availability and arrange a convenient time

Note: Farm visits are subject to seasonal availability and operational requirements. Please allow 48 hours' notice for scheduling.

We offer Spanish Lavender in multiple sizes to suit different needs:

• Small (1–2L pot): Ideal for budget-conscious buyers or mass plantings; establishes quickly
• Medium (3–5L pot): Best value for home gardens; good size for immediate impact
• Large (7–10L pot): Specimen plants for instant display or feature planting

All plants are propagated from cuttings (not seed) to ensure true-to-type colour, form, and performance.

Pricing: Varies by size and quantity; contact us for current rates.